Newsletter - November 2007 - Pruning & Composting

We are really into fall this month. I'm sure you've been raking leaves and enjoying the cooler weather. We've had nightly visits from raccoons at our house. They play in the fountain, eat the crab apples and leave muddy footprints all over the patio. Just as long as they don't come inside for the cat food, they're welcome to play in my garden.

November is a good month to begin pruning because deciduous plants are exposing their branches. Reduce that canopy by removing crossing limbs that rub or are growing in awkward directions. Thin out branches to achieve balance and improve air movement through the plant. The increased circulation decreases mildew and fungus from attaching to new leaves in the spring. (Yes, you can use a fungicide also, but remember that it only protects undamaged leaves. It will not eliminate existing infections). If you're pruning trees for shape, do not remove branches over one inch in diameter. Larger cuts will promote a broom growth effect of tiny twigs circulating around the cut. This really stresses the tree. Also be sure to make your cuts just below a leaf node angled in the direction of the leaf. This will direct the new growth and is important for sealing the tree's wound.

The exception to pruning now is any plant variety that will bloom only in the spring. These plants are setting buds now, so if you prune them, you'll have to wait another year for flowers. The list includes plants such as lilacs, forsythia, spiraea, weigela, deciduous magnolias, and flowering quince. Other plants to ignore for pruning right now are the evergreen camellias, azaleas, rhododendrons, and Lady Banks' Rose. Prune these plants when they are done blooming. Do prune grapes, berries, fruit trees, and roses. It's okay to prune evergreen, broadleaf trees now such as eucalyptus, loquats, African sumacs and California peppers. For needled evergreens, wait until the new candles emerge from their sheaths in the spring, then prune. Make certain that your shears, loppers, and saws are sharp before beginning your projects, so your cuts will be clean and sharp. Don't worry about painting wounds. The products have been found to do more harm than good. It is good to clean the pitch off your tools though. Mineral water and sugar make a great, but inexpensive cleaning compound and it's easy on your hands too.

With all the pruning wastes, you might consider starting a compost pile and create free soil additive for spring gardening. If you have a chipper/shredder use it to speed the process by beginning with small pieces of garden wastes. Basically a successful compost pile layers of green waste (leaves, grass, kitchen peelings), dry waste (dried straw, saw dust, newspapers), nitrogen fertilizer, calcium from eggshells, bones, or seashells, and soil for bacterial microbes. Moisten the layers with water and add more layers. Turn the pile to aerate and prevent anaerobic bacteria from releasing the scent of sulfur into your pile. If you stay with plant wastes and exclude meat products, the pile won't attract rodents and dogs. Some people like the pile open on the ground, while others prefer a closed bin. It just depends on available space. It's good to check the pile with a thermometer; 115 - 150 degrees means the bacteria are doing their job. If you don't have heat, it's either too wet and you need to add more dry matter, or its too dry, so add water. When the compost material is dry, crumbly, cool & sweet smelling, it's ready for use in the soil. Composting is a way to reduce landfill, recycle green wastes, get a little exercise yet still develop the best soil additive known.

Enjoy Thanksgiving and I'll write again next month.